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Places Worth a Weekend

Palaces, coastlines, national parks and city walks worth a weekend, with transport and entry information.

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Photograph: Louie Nicolo Nimor

Korea is small enough that almost everything is a weekend trip. High-speed rail puts the far south a few hours from Seoul, and the practical limit on what you see is not distance but deciding to go.

One thing worth stating plainly for readers used to the opposite: Korea does not charge foreign visitors a higher admission rate. Palaces, museums and parks cost the same for you as for a Korean citizen, and many are free or close to it.

In and around Seoul

The palaces are the obvious start and genuinely worth it, with an integrated ticket covering several if you intend to see more than one. Wear hanbok and palace entry is free - rental shops cluster at the gates, it costs little, and it is the cheapest enjoyable afternoon in the city.

Beyond those: the old hanok neighbourhoods, the fortress wall walk, the mountain parks inside the city limits, the markets, and the contemporary art and design districts. A DMZ tour runs from Seoul and is the one excursion most visitors remember; it must be booked through an authorised operator and your nationality affects eligibility, so check before planning around it.

The old capitals and the heritage towns

Where Why
Gyeongju An entire city of tombs, temples and ruins. The best single heritage trip in the country
Jeonju A large preserved hanok quarter, and the food
Andong Confucian academies, mask dance, and the surrounding villages
Suwon A complete fortress wall, close enough for a day from Seoul
Hahoe and the folk villages Living villages rather than museums

Gyeongju is the one to prioritise if you only do one, and it works as a two-day trip by rail and bus.

Coast, islands and the south

Busan is the second city and an easy weekend: beaches, a vast fish market, mountainside neighbourhoods and a different atmosphere from Seoul. The southern coast and its islands, including the Hallyeohaesang area, are the scenic highlight of the mainland.

Jeju is a short flight and the standard holiday destination: volcanic landscape, coastal paths, a walking trail network around the island, and the country's highest mountain. Hire a car there, because the bus network is slow. Book ahead in season, since the island does run out of vehicles. Renting a car and car sharing covers hiring.

The mountains

Korea is mostly mountains and the national parks are the best thing in the country for anyone who walks. Trails are well marked, busy at weekends, and there is a serious peak within reach of every city, including inside Seoul.

Autumn is spectacular and brief, which is why the trails fill. Spring is excellent. Summer is hot and wet; winter is clear, cold and requires equipment on higher routes.

A temple stay is the underrated option: a night or two at a working Buddhist temple, with meals, meditation and a schedule, available in English at a number of temples and inexpensive. For a quiet weekend it is unlike anything else available here.

Getting there

Rail first. High-speed services run the main corridors and reserved seats are worth it; slower trains cost less and stop more. Express coaches cover what rail does not, comfortably and cheaply.

Book ahead in high season and around the two big holidays, when tickets sell out as soon as they are released. Within a city, the transport card covers everything. Getting around Korea covers the networks, and Korean festivals and holidays covers the dates to avoid travelling on.

Entry, hours and small print

Most sites are cheap, many are free, and discounts exist for students and families. A few practical habits:

  • Check the closing day. Palaces and museums each close one day a week, and they are not all the same day.
  • Last admission is typically well before closing time.
  • National park entry is generally free, though parking and some temples within them charge.
  • Bring your residence card for any resident discount, and for identification.
  • Cash for small rural sites and temple donations.

Where to stay

Cheap and plentiful outside peak season. Guesthouses and hostels are the budget end and often excellent. Motels are the Korean workhorse: unglamorous from outside, clean and well equipped within, bookable on arrival, and much cheaper than a hotel. Hanok stays in the heritage towns put you in a traditional house, which is the point of going. Temple stays are their own category, covered above.

Booking apps cover all of it, and outside holidays and the Jeju summer you can usually arrive and find something. During the two big holidays and the autumn foliage weekends, book well ahead. Korean festivals and holidays covers which weekends those are.

For a short visit versus a long stay

If you are here for a few days, the palaces, a market, a mountain and one trip out of Seoul is a sensible shape. Visiting Korea covers arrival, transport and the refund you can claim as a visitor.

If you live here, the better approach is to pick one region per season and actually finish it, rather than returning to the same three places in Seoul. The country is small and four years is enough to see most of it.

Where this goes wrong

  • Assuming foreigners pay more. You do not, which is unusual and welcome.
  • Not renting hanbok at the palaces, and paying admission for no reason.
  • Turning up on the weekly closing day.
  • Travelling during Seollal or Chuseok without booking weeks ahead.
  • Going to Jeju without a car booked in season.
  • Living here for years and only seeing Seoul.

Where to go next

Korean festivals and holidays covers when to go and what shuts, and concert and sport tickets covers the booked events worth travelling for.

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